Dining and drinking lavishly in the evening is expected. Doing so in broad daylight is borderline delinquent, and that much more pleasurable. I had the luxury to experience a decadent lunch with a friend at The Foxy Brown in Fort Lauderdale, which set the stage for the rest of my week.
I was drawn in at the sound of half priced wine bottles. We made our way to the Broward Boulevard niche, and called so because one is not quite sure of the purpose of the locale, with a drive by. Although the title was clearly stated and the restaurant sat on a highly trafficked road, it did not scream fine dining at first glance. There was also a sign on the sidewalk, reminding passer byes that it was open for lunch or dinner, but again, the facade was perplexing. In any case, upon arrival, we chose to sit outdoors, in a patio adorned with plants, yet facing the parking lot. The humble décor and intimate setting were fitting for lunch, but lacked personality. There was ample opportunity to liven the ambiance in an individual manner. However, the interior softened the look, by playing with oranges and browns, providing warmth. Overall, the décor emitted comfort and simplicity, which translated to the menu.
The choices were not extensive, but I wanted to order almost every item. We began with the mussels, cooked in a garlic curry sauce, topped with sautéed spinach and served with fresh garlic bread. Again the simplicity shined through, but as did the succulence. The garlic was used with rage, yet the flavor came through subtly. The sauce was not described on the menu, therefore it was a pleasant surprise, as I anticipated a traditional tomato broth. If it had been served with a spoon, we would have turned the sauce into a soup. Woops!
In the meantime, we had the opportunity to order a bottle of Riesling to share, at an unreasonably low price. The wine list in total was not extensive either, and the choices listed were not to please a connoisseur. I am no acclaimed sommelier, but most diners would find a wine to appropriately pair their meal with. Again, the beauty lied in its modesty.
Pour la piece de resistance, we shared the lump crab cakes with a five grain mustard sauce, and served with more sautéed spinach. The cakes were generous in size, in quality, and in decadence. The breadcrumbs were minimal, yet the cakes held together nicely. In addition, the buttery sauce further softened them, and rose the bar for lunches served everywhere in South Florida. Such a velvety dish typically emerges after sundown, but the boldness was much appreciated. As for the spinach, it was dressed with salt and pepper mostly, and lightly sautéed. Frankly, I was unimpressed by the side dish, but in a world of such rich foods, it felt right to eat my vegetables.
Speaking of richness, we also ordered a side of mac & cheese. It was baked and served in the baking dish, while toped with breadcrumbs. The yellow cheddar was distributed evenly and the use of elbow macaroni was appropriate. I had hoped for a white cheddar dish instead, but the mac & cheese complimented the crab cakes perfectly. The combination of these creamy dishes emphasized The Foxy Brown’s role as a comfort food kitchen, and at that, they had succeeded. I was comforted, if you will.
To end things on a good note, dessert was a must. Our server recommended the white chocolate bread pudding, served warm. I am normally not a fanatic of bread pudding due to the texture, but to my surprise, this pudding was firm enough, yet tender enough. It was also topped with vanilla bean ice cream, caramel and crunchy pecans. The ice cream’s grade needed improvement; however the dessert as a whole was a perfect ending to our comfort meal. The white chocolate did not overpower, and the contrast in temperatures stressed the opulence. Lying on a hammock, following our meal, would have made it ideal!
In reference to endings, the check was absurdly low and the service had been delightfully attentive, which may serve as encouragement in becoming a regular patron. After the experience, I was able to connect the dots, in terms of the restaurant’s image. Perhaps the unassuming facade was deliberate, as were the color scheme and simplistic menu. Perhaps the unpretentious atmosphere was apart of the adventure, as were the balance in rich and healthy items. Definitely. Our meal had been so enjoyable that it came close to some of life’s dearest pleasures. It had brought joy to our hearts and a perpetual smile to our lips. It transformed our notion of lunch, emotionally and gastronomically.